Teacup

Fashion and celebrity trends has had an immense impact on people and the cultural norms of society affecting both men and women and the way that their bodies are perceived by each other. Depending on your geographical location and beliefs, cultural views will also assert a level of liberalism or conservatism on what is ‘appropriate behaviour’ and overtime, trends in ‘breast-fashion’ have changed to keep up with the norms.

Demand for breast enhancements have been growing since the late ’90s

Since 1997, surgery for breast enlargement (including breast lifts) has grown by 257%, reaching 432,403 patients in America in 2005, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.

Dr. Scott Spear, professor and chief of plastic surgery at Georgetown University in Washington, says that women were undeterred by health concerns over silicone implants and the fact that it was not covered by insurance.

“Breast operations are just part of a larger picture,” he says. “All types of plastic surgery were on the upswing during that period of time, partly because a surge in the economy means that people can afford the operations.”

In those days, you got breast implants to make a statement adds Dr. Roxanne Guy, a plastic surgeon in Melbourne, Fla. “It was like getting a tattoo or pierced eyebrow; women felt more empowered,” she said.

However, Dr. Diana Zuckerman, a psychologist and board member of the National Women’s Health Network, was not convinced. “In many cases”, she said, “they reflect an urge to conform to an image of sexiness defined by magazines and lingerie catalogues full of models with implants”.

We have a pathological desire to improve our self-image

Although this trend in surgical enhancement has drastically dropped, even in modern times, we are still bound together by insecurity, with an almost pathological will to “improve” our own self-image, says author and political photographer Zed Nelson.

“The worldwide pursuit of body improvement has become like a new religion,” he says. “Perhaps in the future generation, we will see a point in history where the abnormal will become normal, or at least normalised.”

“Globalisation hasn’t just given us Starbucks in Beijing and shopping malls in Africa,” he said. “It is also creating an eerily homogenised look.”

With  digital alteration becoming so accessible, anyone can create pictures of what we should look like

Author, psychologist and relationship counsellor Alisa Miller agrees that in recent times, with the increased accessibility of digital alteration of images, it is easy to see alteration done by both the media and public in almost every picture to create an idealistic image of what we ought to look like.

“We see digital enhancements in every billboard to the point that we think women in their underwear have bodies made of sleek, taut, fiberglass without an inch of flesh to spare, luminous eyes, flawless skin, legs which go on forever and breasts which defy gravity.”

“Even with Facebook’s stringent rules regarding nudity in photographs there is hardly a girl profile out there where you will not see its owner in her smalls (or without) or low-cut tops leaning into the camera for that bird’s-eye look to a girl’s cleavage.”

In many western countries, breasts are considered taboo

Author Maria Miller writes that in many western countries, a woman’s breasts are a taboo; they are supposed to be hidden and it is because of this that we are so obsessed by them to a point that is unhealthy.

“If young girls and boys continually see this propaganda without a balancing view of natural naked breasts, it is no wonder that women start seriously worrying about the size and shape of their own breasts and that men become conditioned to see breasts purely as objects of sexual arousal and play that automatically ‘clicks’ their brains to the ‘turn-on’ mode”, she said.

Nudity does not equal sexuality

“Naturists from all over the world always emphasise how sexuality does not equal nudity. Nudity is not sexually stimulating if the atmosphere and attitudes are non-sexual.”

“We have a vicious cycle on our hands: the less acceptable it is for women to feel more open about their breasts, the less people get to see the image of real breasts. At the same time media everywhere constantly tout the perverted view of female breasts, which makes people view them as purely sexual,” says Maria.

What type of breasts are acceptable?

It seems that is not only whether to see or not to see breasts we have issues dealing with,  we also have distorted views on what kind of breasts should be publicly seen.

In early 2010, Australia outrightly banned pornography featuring women with small breasts and (putting my prudishness aside) female ejaculation, claiming that such images encourage pedophilia. “This law is not only obscene, it’s insulting,” says adult industry blog Ms Naughty. “Not only does this encourage women to have breast augmentations, it characterises men who think small boobs are sexy as ‘perverts’.”

Recently this month, US television networks Fox and ABC were also publicly criticised for resisting to air a lingerie ad featuring busty plus-sized women claiming they showed too much cleavage.

The label of the lingerie ad Lane Bryant wrote on their blog “while it’s no secret that Victoria’s Secret ‘The Nakeds’ ads are prancing around on major networks leaving little to the imagination, our sultry siren who shows sophisticated sass is somehow deemed inappropriate. Does this smack of a double standard? Yep. It does to us, too.”

Real breasts are becoming fashionable

Although in the past the fashion industry has not been the prime role model for advocating a healthy body image, trends show that the times are changing.

“Boyish figures and clothes that ignore the female figure have long been all the rage among high-fashion designers,” reports fashion and culture website Tressugar. This last season we saw some (relatively) voluptuous catwalkers with brands as high up as Prada flaunting the natural curves of women. Disney Films also made headlines when recently starting their casting for the next Pirates of the Caribbean instalment with casting calls requesting that applicants “must have real breasts” so that they look real when they jiggle (although whether they are trying to actually promote a natural ideal or just want more ‘jiggly’ breasts is still up for debate). Young women of France, traditionally renowned for their summer topless sunbathing, have  also taken a more modest turn shunning the idea of public nudity saying that “the practice has become common, and therefore less compelling as a fashion”.

From the curvaceous, to the natural to the prude, the fashions of the breasts are in deed changing in all directions. What may be appropriate in one culture is never to be sure to be ok in another. What is important though, is that we keep an open mind and no matter big, small, or curvy, breasts will always be a beautiful organ in the female body.

Do you think making public nudity acceptable will change the way we look at bodies? Would men will still find breasts attractive if its association with sexuality was removed? Do women even find it offensive that breasts are objectified and instead find it empowering that they have power over a man through their breasts?

In a world where women are filled with such diverse needs, one of the biggest challenges faced by marketers it to try understand their target market. From there, trying to understand the needs of the modern man seems almost near impossible. Gone are the days where men were considered simple. Men’s marketing in today’s world is as intricate and complex as women’s as men become increasingly concerned with their personal image.

Male grooming industry is estimated to grow up to $84.9 billion by 2014

Research by Reportlinker.com found that the market for men’s grooming products valued at $US19.7 billion worldwide in 2009, expected to grow up to $US28 billion by 2014. The report also notes that men tend to use grooming products that are ‘non-male-specific’ as well estimating their total consumption to skyrocket to somewhere between $61.3-$84.9 billion in the next five years.

Men wearing makeup? Evolution or unnatural?

One sector that is surprisingly showing growth is the men’s make up sector. While traditionally the make up cabinet has solely been reserved for women, both business and consumers are showing a fashionable rise in men embracing the world of makeup. From Johnny Depp’s captivating looks from Pirates of the Carribean to the decadently seductive Russell Brand, you only have to look to our celebrities to see the rise in men’s make up and beauty market.

Grooming not just for metrosexuals

This trend is not just for the appearance conscious metrosexuals, says make-up artist Nathan Johnson. With more of the Average Joe men ready to cross the gender divide, brands are happy to fill their needs with products specifically designed to meet men’s demands and make them feel comfortable while doing so.

Emasculation of men or a Liberal conspiracy?

UK Guardian’s Paul MacInnes compares men wearing makeup to the likes of ‘a toddler having a mortgage’. “It’s unnatural and likely to end in disaster,” he says.

But why is this change taking place? Some may see this as the eminent emasculation of men. However, Paul suggests that this is due to the liberal and consumerism movement of Labour governments.

“By presiding over an unprecedented period of economic growth which put money in people’s pockets and encouraged them to believe the good times would just keep on rolling, men took their eyes off the ball. They were encouraged to spend, to live, to dream – and when people start dreaming funny things happen. They start joining gyms, they start eating healthily, they start mentally reconstituting 1950s cigarette adverts showing beaming nuclear families, only it’s their mug on the poster. Only their mug looks a bit blotchy. So they reach for the blusher.”

The men’s market in an unsaturated niche

Whether this is actually true or not, the niche does exist, says Caroline Wilde, head of retail at brand consultancy Live & Breathe. “It’s an unfulfilled market. Nivea had some success so the market is there but it is not saturated like the female market.” Shower gels and deodorants tend to be a safe entry point to the men’s market to test your products, she adds. Although there is a market for face creams and other beauty products, it is more difficult to penetrate the market with those product lines.

Men don’t want to be associated with the ‘f-word’

“The problem with the word fashion is that most guys associate it with girls,” says Jay Fielden, editor of Men’s Vogue, who reportedly calls fashion the “f-word” to his staffers. “Here we talk about style, personal style.”

“The idea of fashion triggers off a response of ‘change,’ and men don’t like change,” says menswear designer John Varvatos for article in theBigMoney.com. “So menswear has to be about evolution, not revolution.”

“Modern men are much more sophisticated than some brands think they are and will ultimately see through this superficial approach” says Aniko Hill from The Kitchen Collaborative.

Making men feel comfortable

New Zealand based  men’s only spa and salon Manscape is trying a different approach as they try to push men to feel more comfortable with looking after themselves, claiming that is not just for girls.

Service Options

Haircut – A Manscape haircut is an experience you’ll look forward to every month! Sit back and enjoy a complimentary beer, O.J or coffee while your stylist works their magic. Your hair will be washed at the start and end to get rid of those annoying hairs. Your cut & style also includes a scalp and shoulder massage.

Eyebrows - Shape & tidy – there’s nothing girly about this! Stray hairs removed, hairs trimmed to leave your brows looking and sitting tidy.

Massage – Relax with a half or full hour Swedish (relaxation) style massage. Don’t knock it till you’ve had one and when you’ve had one you’ll want another!

Handy Work – (Man I cure) Nail soak & shape, cuticle removal, hand & arm massage and buff to a high shine. Finishing off with cuticle oil and hydrating hand cream.

Foot Maintenance - (Manly pedicure) Peppermint foot spa exfoliation. Toenails clipped & shaped, cuticles removed, foot & leg massage, finishing with cuticle oil to nourish and protect.

Groom Grooming – For you and your mates to relax, look and feel your best for the big day

Does this trend change what it means to be a man in todays society?

Like the female market, the men’s market is growing increasingly more complex and segmented. But does this era in appearance-awareness showing the beginning of the end of traditional masculinity? What effect will this have on what it means to be a man?

In today’s day and age, many would agree that the myth of the gender gap is far from reality in modern society. With the feminism movement pushing for equal rights and pay for women in the workplace, women have many opportunities available at their disposal and yet the gender gap is still a debated topic in many industries, especially at management level.

Fashion: a gay man’s profession

In fashion and beauty, being a female dominated area, one would seemingly think that women would be paving the way in exemplary career moves but this is not the case, accordingly to reporter Eric Wilson for the New York Times. In now days, writes Eric, fashion “is a gay many’s profession” and women, although making up majority of the fashion consumers, face barriers in career advancement in the creative side.

Men’s average salaries are increasing while women’s are decreasing

Does this argument have any merit? Research conducted by Meetingsnet.com found that the salary gap has grown even wider from 2003 to 2005. Where average salary for males in executive management grew from $99,327 in 2003 to $109,042 in 2005, female counterparts’ salary has decreased from $75,129 in 2003 to $71,561 in 2005.

Research from Fortune also showed that from their top 25 best compensated male executives, the highest earning male topped at $350.7 million annually, whilst from the top 25 female executives, the highest earning woman earned a mere $38.6 million. A gap of $312.1 million.

Men have a quicker rise to stardom

In Eric’s article, knitwear designer Liz Collins quotes “There are some really deep-seated tensions and resentment that has existed for a long time about gender in fashion and who gets things. A lot of those things are not necessarily real, or true, and they may be just suspicions. But you can look at certain examples of people who have had a faster rise to stardom, and the percentage of gay men is higher.”

Men receive more recognition and more publicity

Although difficult to prove true, many females designers believe that several of their male counterparts have been presented with more industry awards and been given more prominent coverage in the media. “The Council of Fashion Designers of America, a trade group that vets those who apply for membership, is made up of 121 women and 156 men. Since 1986 its annual Perry Ellis awards for young talent have been given to 8 women and 29 men (20 of them openly gay),” writes Eric.

Women prioritise their life at home over their career

However, some of the differences in career outcomes for men and women results from different lifestyle choices for each gender. “Women still prioritise getting married and having babies,” says influential fashion designer Norma Kamali. “There are fewer women willing to give up the time that is required for this kind of career. It’s about passion, about being so focused that nothing could distract you.”

Men are more objective, Women are more empathetic

Designer Michael Vollbracht, believes that gay men are simply better at designing for women because their design visions are formed by the fantasy of the ideal women, whereas female designers tend to focus on practicality and are “trapped by their own views of themselves”. However, female designers are quick to argue back that if men are more objective in their designs, women were definitely more empathetic. “I wear my own clothes,” says business owner Dana Buchman. “I have lived the life of my customer.”

Women face barriers that men just don’t face

Jeanine Prime, author of a study on women in the workplace by Catalyst in Eric’s article, says ”We can’t explain the gender gap away by differences in qualifications, ambitions or success strategies. A lot of it still has to do with the perception that women don’t have the right leadership stuff. There are a lot of barriers that men just don’t face.”

Men and women face different lifestyle pressures

For many men, including gay men, it is easier to prioritise their career. They have the pressure of being seen as the ‘bread-maker’ in the family. Naturally, they are determined to advance in their career faster to secure an easy lifestyle for their loved ones. Women, on the other hand, although they can focus all of their energy on their career should they wish to, majority de-prioritise their work once they have had children wanting to become good mothers, and thus there are less women entering management level positions as their careers progress.

Is it a fair comparison? Does it really exist?

Although it is easy to compare pay levels and see a drastic dissimilarities between genders, Is this a fair comparison given the difference in proportions of number of people continually determined advance for each gender?

The beauty industry has always maintained an intimate relationship with the consumer. Even in the tough times of the recession, consumers can’t resist the urge to look and feel their best. In fact, research commissioned by L’Oréal showed that 9 out of 10 women has not made any change in their make up usage despite the economic crisis. However, this does not mean we can sit back and relax. Now more than ever, we need to listen to what our customers are wanting, and yes, their needs are changing.

Why do women buy beauty products?

Reporter Alisa Marie Beyer for the Global Cosmetic Industry writes “contrary to popular thinking, most women seem to feel good about how they look and who they are”. If women already feel good about themselves, why then are they purchasing all these products to change their face and body? According to Alisa it’s to relax and relieve stress. Shopping for beauty products is like an escape from daily life for women where they can solely focus on their needs and making themselves feel better.

How can we market beauty products effectively?

When it comes to our advertisements that try to entice women to connect with our product, 92% of women believe that companies just do not understand them. Women want to see realistic depictions of women like themselves. “Attractive women, women of diversity, a mom, a CEO, a diva, an artist,” says Alisa. “Women also view advertisements as an opportunity to aspire, whether it is a new look, a new way to wear lipstick or a new beauty secret. Women love to look and feel beautiful.”

For those of us who are in need of guidance, Global Cosmetic Industry gives these tips on creating great marketing campaigns for beauty products:

Great advertising does not have to be flashy

A good ad does not need to feature flashy celebs or supermodels. However, it does need to portray your product and brand in a way that is clear and easy to digest. An example of this is adverts by Clinique – although not extravagant, the ads shows off the product and provides information on what the producy actually does.

A great advertisement knows itself

A great ad needs to convey what it is that the brand stands for – this helps consumers relate to the brand and build a connection. Make up product MAC is a good example of this because of their creative advertisements. Although it is not a mainstream product, it shows that the brand is hip, young and innovative.

A great advertisement is easy to understand

Women really want to understand an ad. They buy from brands they understand. No matter how great a product you may have, if your message is not communicated clearly, your customer will not understand nor relate to it. Although Neutrogena (below) was shown to be ‘easy to understand’ by a market study, in 2008, the brand did run into some trouble with the industry watchdog NAD (National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus) for making individual products look like they were the ‘#1 recommended product by dermatologists’, when really it was the brand as a whole.

A great advertisement connects to emotions

It’s a wide known fact (whether we like it or not) that women live in an emotional world and our decisions are primarily driven by what we feel. For a brand, establishing a connection on an emotional level is what can transcend it to becoming part of the consumer’s daily life.

One of my personal favourite brands for doing this is Dove with, first, their infamous Campaign for Real Beauty in 2004 and then their Pro Age Campaign in 2007 which got banned from TV in the US by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) for showing too much skin and implying nudity. Despite them being banned, Dove is still one of my top brands as all of their marketing really tries to connect with people. Now, they are even making short films to challenge what the norms really are of beauty – very interesting to watch.

Dove’s Campaign for Real Beauty (2004)

Dove Pro Age Campaign (2007) – banned in the USA for showing too much skin

Dove short film on what women’s first impressions are of other women (2009)

Although some would say otherwise, the beauty industry is great industry to be in – you get to make people feel good about themselves, more confident, more relaxed with their appearance and give them the ability to become who they want to be in the eyes of the world. We are very privileged as marketers to be able to connect on such a deep level with people, and it’s a role we should not take for granted or take the easy route out of. By understanding what it is your customer really wants, you can offer them something that is unique and valuable and gain a devoted customer for life.

If you want to know more about beauty marketing, here are some interesting reads:

Living Brands: Where the Future of Beauty Begins
By Raymond Nadeau for Professional Beauty (2008)

In Dove ads, normal is the new beautiful
By Jack Neff for Advertising Age (2004)

Savvy Beauty Marketers Can Thrive in Challenging Times
By Alisa Marie Beyer for Global Cosmetic Industry (2009)

For many of us, the closest we’ve gotten to owning products from the luxury market is oogling the shopfront through the window. But for the privileged few, the luxury market is a world of wonder where any desire can be filled with the swipe of the card.

Who is the luxury consumer?

The luxury market consists of the top 10% of the wealthiest people in the world. Despite the limited number of consumers that are able to afford the products, the luxury market is no small player. Research done by Mastercard in 2008 showed that US luxury sales topped at $891 million in September this year, up 3.4% from last year. Research by Unity Marketing also showed that in the last 3 months leading to September, the luxury consumer spent an average of $18,826 each (highest-income earners spending an average of $43,111). With an average annual income of $228,800 and so many products to choose from, you have to wonder, what tickles a luxury consumer’s fancy?

Luxury consumers are motivated by enjoyment and personal growth

Luxury consumers indulge in luxuries for two reasons: pleasure and enjoyment; and to improve the quality of life through self-actualisation. So as marketers, it’s important that we try to enhance the pleasure the consumer feels while consuming the product and provide ways for them to improve their own personal growth and life experiences through the product.

In the video clip below, marketing and advertising agency Atelier (a division of Leo Bernett) looks at how the luxury market is changing in the financial downturn. According to the guys at Atelier, the luxury consumer is no longer about status building – up until now, luxury goods signified status and glamour. Consumers today are engaging with luxury products to please themselves instead of conveying their lifestyle. They look for new forms of experiencing luxury in smaller amounts that provide an even higher quality. Instead of buying several lower-priced items, they will spend more on a single longer-lasting luxury.

They expect authentic products and a high level of ethical practice

In today’s market, luxury consumers look for exclusivity, authenticity, quality and dependability, reports Forbes.com. They also suggest that although consumers recognise ‘green washing’ (where a company overstates their environmental commitment), they expect luxury companies to uphold a high ethical standard. As consumers become more and more aware of manufacturing process and the increasing trends for goods being produced outside mainland Europe, shoppers are looking for assurance that they are getting their money’s worth. To address this, many high end companies have started releasing ‘behind the scenes’ look inside how they make their products (See Making of a Hermes Bag below).

Luxury consumers are not immune to the recession

Reporter Mirril Mascarenhas at the Canadian Marketing Association claims that there is a new sense of discretion with luxury spending. “Instead of that coveted shopping bag with an iconic brand name, some are asking for something a little less ostentatious.” Well aware of public backlash that could erupt in this economic turmoil, luxury shoppers are looking to conceal their wealth in order to be considerate of less wealthy consumers.

“Wealthy customers are asking for plain bags, no boxes, or requesting goods be delivered later. They don’t want everyone to know nor do they want to flaunt their brands. Another study argues 62% of wealthy consumers say openly flaunting wealth is out,” writes Mirril.

Like the consumers, the luxury brands are not immune to this recession either, even those that do promote quality over quantity. According to Forbes, “Even the privately owned French label Chanel–known best for $2,000 bags and $6,000 suits that last a lifetime–announced that it would cut 200 jobs this month.”

Can money really buy us happiness?

Despite its changing nature, the luxury market is not going anywhere soon. Changes in luxury consumer behaviour reflect their evolving attributes and the effects of the recession on the luxury market. But for those of us who still have a few years left before we can call ourselves a luxury consumer, I leave you with this: Journalist Benjamin Wallace trials some of the most luxurious goods in the world to try answer Can our happiness be bought?

Hmm.. when you look at some of the products… Maybe…

Colour is beautiful. But, sadly, today I am not talking about colours as in red, yellow, green and blue. I am talking about racial and ethnic colours. Recently, there has been many controversy brewing about (or more about the lack there of) coloured models on the runway. Supermodel Naomi Campbell accused companies in August of this year for using the recession as an excuse to drop black models. Experts have shone light on many of the issues in the fashion racial debate including runway organisers deciding that having one coloured model per runway show is enough, the perception that a cover or an advertisement featuring a coloured model will not sell as well as one with a white model, designers not feeling conscious enough of the lack of diversity in their shows and those with the power to influence not pushing for more inclusion of coloured models.

In 22 fashion spreads in 9 magazines, only 1 featured a black woman

Surely, this cannot apply here as well, I thought. So, I went to find out and picked up this month’s Marie Claire issue with Ms Rachel McAdams on the front cover. Although it was good to see there was an editorial feature on racial prejudice (perhaps indicating Naomi’s concerns do go beyond the fashion industry), I was shocked and deeply saddened to see that only 7 of all the 330 pages in the entire magazine contained models from a non-western background and only 1 advertiser using a coloured model in their ad. And it seems that other magazines are no different. You only have to flick through the first couple of pages to see the effects. A fellow blogger Jezebel did an analysis of all major women’s magazines in December of 2007 and found that in 22 fashion spreads in 9 different magazines, only one featured a black woman (singer Beyonce Knowles – whom, in my opinion you can’t really count as a model, she’s a superstar! If you can get her, of course you’re going to put her in the magazine!).

Italian Vogue’s All Black Issue

However, it is not all lost. In July 2005, Vogue Italy launched an ‘All-Black’ issue to raise awareness of racial prejudice in the fashion industry featuring only black women throughout the entire issue. The issue was such a success that it was sold out within 72 hours in UK and the US and was rushed to reprint an excess of 60,000 copies. Just recently this year in July, the ‘All Black’ Italian Vogue returned but featuring the new all-black Barbie (not all-black models).

All Black model line ups

In fashion weeks world-wide, designers have also started featuring all-black or all-coloured model line ups including PPQ at London Fashion Week, Sophie Theallet at New York Fashion Week and Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris Fashion Week (although Gaultier did feature a couple of western young ladies).

Are we really ready to change?

A study done last year by professors at Villanova University and College of New Jersey found that although ads with thinner models made women feel more self-conscious, they feel better about the product being featured in the ad. Reporter Jack Neff from AdAge writes “Despite the negative effect on their body image, women preferred ads showing thin models and said they were more likely to buy products featured in those ads than in ones showing ‘regular-size models,’ said Jeremy Kees, a business professor at Villanova.” Why do we expect magazines to embrace women of all colours, shapes and sizes, when we, the women reading them, fail to do so?

How do you feel about this issue?