Demand for breast enhancements have been growing since the late ’90s

Since 1997, surgery for breast enlargement (including breast lifts) has grown by 257%, reaching 432,403 patients in America in 2005, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.

Dr. Scott Spear, professor and chief of plastic surgery at Georgetown University in Washington, says that women were undeterred by health concerns over silicone implants and the fact that it was not covered by insurance.

“Breast operations are just part of a larger picture,” he says. “All types of plastic surgery were on the upswing during that period of time, partly because a surge in the economy means that people can afford the operations.”

In those days, you got breast implants to make a statement adds Dr. Roxanne Guy, a plastic surgeon in Melbourne, Fla. “It was like getting a tattoo or pierced eyebrow; women felt more empowered,” she said.

However, Dr. Diana Zuckerman, a psychologist and board member of the National Women’s Health Network, was not convinced. “In many cases”, she said, “they reflect an urge to conform to an image of sexiness defined by magazines and lingerie catalogues full of models with implants”.

We have a pathological desire to improve our self-image

Although this trend in surgical enhancement has drastically dropped, even in modern times, we are still bound together by insecurity, with an almost pathological will to “improve” our own self-image, says author and political photographer Zed Nelson.

“The worldwide pursuit of body improvement has become like a new religion,” he says. “Perhaps in the future generation, we will see a point in history where the abnormal will become normal, or at least normalised.”

“Globalisation hasn’t just given us Starbucks in Beijing and shopping malls in Africa,” he said. “It is also creating an eerily homogenised look.”

With  digital alteration becoming so accessible, anyone can create pictures of what we should look like

Author, psychologist and relationship counsellor Alisa Miller agrees that in recent times, with the increased accessibility of digital alteration of images, it is easy to see alteration done by both the media and public in almost every picture to create an idealistic image of what we ought to look like.

“We see digital enhancements in every billboard to the point that we think women in their underwear have bodies made of sleek, taut, fiberglass without an inch of flesh to spare, luminous eyes, flawless skin, legs which go on forever and breasts which defy gravity.”

“Even with Facebook’s stringent rules regarding nudity in photographs there is hardly a girl profile out there where you will not see its owner in her smalls (or without) or low-cut tops leaning into the camera for that bird’s-eye look to a girl’s cleavage.”

In many western countries, breasts are considered taboo

Author Maria Miller writes that in many western countries, a woman’s breasts are a taboo; they are supposed to be hidden and it is because of this that we are so obsessed by them to a point that is unhealthy.

“If young girls and boys continually see this propaganda without a balancing view of natural naked breasts, it is no wonder that women start seriously worrying about the size and shape of their own breasts and that men become conditioned to see breasts purely as objects of sexual arousal and play that automatically ‘clicks’ their brains to the ‘turn-on’ mode”, she said.

Nudity does not equal sexuality

“Naturists from all over the world always emphasise how sexuality does not equal nudity. Nudity is not sexually stimulating if the atmosphere and attitudes are non-sexual.”

“We have a vicious cycle on our hands: the less acceptable it is for women to feel more open about their breasts, the less people get to see the image of real breasts. At the same time media everywhere constantly tout the perverted view of female breasts, which makes people view them as purely sexual,” says Maria.

What type of breasts are acceptable?

It seems that is not only whether to see or not to see breasts we have issues dealing with,  we also have distorted views on what kind of breasts should be publicly seen.

In early 2010, Australia outrightly banned pornography featuring women with small breasts and (putting my prudishness aside) female ejaculation, claiming that such images encourage pedophilia. “This law is not only obscene, it’s insulting,” says adult industry blog Ms Naughty. “Not only does this encourage women to have breast augmentations, it characterises men who think small boobs are sexy as ‘perverts’.”

Recently this month, US television networks Fox and ABC were also publicly criticised for resisting to air a lingerie ad featuring busty plus-sized women claiming they showed too much cleavage.

The label of the lingerie ad Lane Bryant wrote on their blog “while it’s no secret that Victoria’s Secret ‘The Nakeds’ ads are prancing around on major networks leaving little to the imagination, our sultry siren who shows sophisticated sass is somehow deemed inappropriate. Does this smack of a double standard? Yep. It does to us, too.”

Real breasts are becoming fashionable

Although in the past the fashion industry has not been the prime role model for advocating a healthy body image, trends show that the times are changing.

“Boyish figures and clothes that ignore the female figure have long been all the rage among high-fashion designers,” reports fashion and culture website Tressugar. This last season we saw some (relatively) voluptuous catwalkers with brands as high up as Prada flaunting the natural curves of women. Disney Films also made headlines when recently starting their casting for the next Pirates of the Caribbean instalment with casting calls requesting that applicants “must have real breasts” so that they look real when they jiggle (although whether they are trying to actually promote a natural ideal or just want more ‘jiggly’ breasts is still up for debate). Young women of France, traditionally renowned for their summer topless sunbathing, have  also taken a more modest turn shunning the idea of public nudity saying that “the practice has become common, and therefore less compelling as a fashion”.

From the curvaceous, to the natural to the prude, the fashions of the breasts are in deed changing in all directions. What may be appropriate in one culture is never to be sure to be ok in another. What is important though, is that we keep an open mind and no matter big, small, or curvy, breasts will always be a beautiful organ in the female body.

Do you think making public nudity acceptable will change the way we look at bodies? Would men will still find breasts attractive if its association with sexuality was removed? Do women even find it offensive that breasts are objectified and instead find it empowering that they have power over a man through their breasts?

Advertising tells us who we should be

“Advertising tells us who we are, and who we should be in society,” says Jean Kilbourne, author, filmmaker and critique on issues surrounding women in advertising.

“Advertising is a statement of what it means to be a woman in today’s culture. This ideal image influences women’s self-esteem and also influences how men feel about the real women that they are with.”

Only 5% of women the ideal body depicted by the media

According to a research study by BBC’s Money programme, one in three women believe that media images portraying unrealistic, beautiful women make them feel overweight and unattractive.

According to Jean,  statistically only 5% of women have the body type most portrayed in the media - the only one seen as desirable and acceptable.

“This is genetic,” she says. “You cannot diet yourself into this body any more than you can make yourself taller. It is no wonder there is such terrible stress on young girls.”

Beauty products aren’t the only culprits

But beauty products aren’t the only culprits in having negative impacts on body image. From movies to music videos, women are being flooded with depictions of what is meant to the ideal shape.

Dr. Helga Dittmar, a psychologist at the University of Sussex, says music videos in particular have a very big influence on poor body image in young girls.

“Female models in music videos help to promote thinness as desirable – and are often depicted in ways that emphasise this physical ideal. Given that 12-19-year olds are by far the biggest consumers of such videos, now omnipresent in shops, clubs and in the home, through channels such as MTV, it is against this ideal that young girls come to measure themselves, often unfavourably, which can lead to body dissatisfaction and, in turn, unhealthy eating behaviours.”

Should other forms of media have restrictions?

If this is the case, then shouldn’t other types of media, such as music videos, too have some sort restrictions placed upon them? In Australia, a motion to individually rate music video with a PG or M rating is already in progress to highlight those videos with women being portrayed as sex objects during children’s viewing hours.

“It’s more than just sex (being suggested in music videos),” said South Australian MP Amanda Rishworth, also a trained psychologist. “It’s about the role women play in them.”

It’s more complicated than simply blaming the media

Although it is tempting to blame today’s media for perpetuating and glorifying unrealistic standards of physical beauty, the truth is far more complicated says researchers Dr Jennifer Derenne and Dr Eugene Beresin.

“Throughout history, the dominant cultural ideals have always shaped the public’s perception of the ideal female body type. However, today’s culture is unique in that the media (including television, Internet, movies, and print) have a far more powerful presence than ever before.”

In reality, “the standard of female beauty often has been unrealistic and difficult to attain throughout history.”

Banning of Tobacco Advertising

In a similar case, the Tobacco Advertising Prohibition Act was brought about in 1992 banning all tobacco advertising and sponsorships to stop youth smoking and reduce the health burden of tobacco use in Australia. The Cancer Council of Victoria argued that by prohibiting public promotion of tobacco, it will “reduce tobacco use in both the prevalence and initiation of smoking, and ‘denormalise’ tobacco products”. The tobacco industry argued back saying that they had the ‘freedom of speech’ protection to inform their clients about their products, their product was legal and therefore it should be legal to promote it and that the role of advertising in the tobacco industry was merely to sway customers to switch brands.

Education and parental behaviours a key role

Whether this will be the same story in the beauty industry is yet to be seen. However, Drs Jennifer and Eugene has this bit of insight:

“The media is a formidable force, and one that is not going to change easily. However, it is not the only culprit; parental behaviours and family values play an important role in shaping children’s development. The onus is on adults to find a way to harness media power for good instead of evil.”

Further Information
Jean Kilbourne’s talk on  Advertising’s Image Of Women entitled Killing Us Softly:
Killing Us Softly – Part 1
Killing Us Softly – Part 2
Killing Us Softly – Part 3
Killing Us Softly – Part 4
Killing Us Softly – Part 5

What are your thoughts?

Do you think banning beauty advertising will have an effect on women’s body image? Is it even possible to make a beauty ad that promotes healthy body image?

Male grooming industry is estimated to grow up to $84.9 billion by 2014

Research by Reportlinker.com found that the market for men’s grooming products valued at $US19.7 billion worldwide in 2009, expected to grow up to $US28 billion by 2014. The report also notes that men tend to use grooming products that are ‘non-male-specific’ as well estimating their total consumption to skyrocket to somewhere between $61.3-$84.9 billion in the next five years.

Men wearing makeup? Evolution or unnatural?

One sector that is surprisingly showing growth is the men’s make up sector. While traditionally the make up cabinet has solely been reserved for women, both business and consumers are showing a fashionable rise in men embracing the world of makeup. From Johnny Depp’s captivating looks from Pirates of the Carribean to the decadently seductive Russell Brand, you only have to look to our celebrities to see the rise in men’s make up and beauty market.

Grooming not just for metrosexuals

This trend is not just for the appearance conscious metrosexuals, says make-up artist Nathan Johnson. With more of the Average Joe men ready to cross the gender divide, brands are happy to fill their needs with products specifically designed to meet men’s demands and make them feel comfortable while doing so.

Emasculation of men or a Liberal conspiracy?

UK Guardian’s Paul MacInnes compares men wearing makeup to the likes of ‘a toddler having a mortgage’. “It’s unnatural and likely to end in disaster,” he says.

But why is this change taking place? Some may see this as the eminent emasculation of men. However, Paul suggests that this is due to the liberal and consumerism movement of Labour governments.

“By presiding over an unprecedented period of economic growth which put money in people’s pockets and encouraged them to believe the good times would just keep on rolling, men took their eyes off the ball. They were encouraged to spend, to live, to dream – and when people start dreaming funny things happen. They start joining gyms, they start eating healthily, they start mentally reconstituting 1950s cigarette adverts showing beaming nuclear families, only it’s their mug on the poster. Only their mug looks a bit blotchy. So they reach for the blusher.”

The men’s market in an unsaturated niche

Whether this is actually true or not, the niche does exist, says Caroline Wilde, head of retail at brand consultancy Live & Breathe. “It’s an unfulfilled market. Nivea had some success so the market is there but it is not saturated like the female market.” Shower gels and deodorants tend to be a safe entry point to the men’s market to test your products, she adds. Although there is a market for face creams and other beauty products, it is more difficult to penetrate the market with those product lines.

Men don’t want to be associated with the ‘f-word’

“The problem with the word fashion is that most guys associate it with girls,” says Jay Fielden, editor of Men’s Vogue, who reportedly calls fashion the “f-word” to his staffers. “Here we talk about style, personal style.”

“The idea of fashion triggers off a response of ‘change,’ and men don’t like change,” says menswear designer John Varvatos for article in theBigMoney.com. “So menswear has to be about evolution, not revolution.”

“Modern men are much more sophisticated than some brands think they are and will ultimately see through this superficial approach” says Aniko Hill from The Kitchen Collaborative.

Making men feel comfortable

New Zealand based  men’s only spa and salon Manscape is trying a different approach as they try to push men to feel more comfortable with looking after themselves, claiming that is not just for girls.

Service Options

Haircut – A Manscape haircut is an experience you’ll look forward to every month! Sit back and enjoy a complimentary beer, O.J or coffee while your stylist works their magic. Your hair will be washed at the start and end to get rid of those annoying hairs. Your cut & style also includes a scalp and shoulder massage.

Eyebrows - Shape & tidy – there’s nothing girly about this! Stray hairs removed, hairs trimmed to leave your brows looking and sitting tidy.

Massage – Relax with a half or full hour Swedish (relaxation) style massage. Don’t knock it till you’ve had one and when you’ve had one you’ll want another!

Handy Work – (Man I cure) Nail soak & shape, cuticle removal, hand & arm massage and buff to a high shine. Finishing off with cuticle oil and hydrating hand cream.

Foot Maintenance - (Manly pedicure) Peppermint foot spa exfoliation. Toenails clipped & shaped, cuticles removed, foot & leg massage, finishing with cuticle oil to nourish and protect.

Groom Grooming – For you and your mates to relax, look and feel your best for the big day

Does this trend change what it means to be a man in todays society?

Like the female market, the men’s market is growing increasingly more complex and segmented. But does this era in appearance-awareness showing the beginning of the end of traditional masculinity? What effect will this have on what it means to be a man?

Why do women buy beauty products?

Reporter Alisa Marie Beyer for the Global Cosmetic Industry writes “contrary to popular thinking, most women seem to feel good about how they look and who they are”. If women already feel good about themselves, why then are they purchasing all these products to change their face and body? According to Alisa it’s to relax and relieve stress. Shopping for beauty products is like an escape from daily life for women where they can solely focus on their needs and making themselves feel better.

How can we market beauty products effectively?

When it comes to our advertisements that try to entice women to connect with our product, 92% of women believe that companies just do not understand them. Women want to see realistic depictions of women like themselves. “Attractive women, women of diversity, a mom, a CEO, a diva, an artist,” says Alisa. “Women also view advertisements as an opportunity to aspire, whether it is a new look, a new way to wear lipstick or a new beauty secret. Women love to look and feel beautiful.”

For those of us who are in need of guidance, Global Cosmetic Industry gives these tips on creating great marketing campaigns for beauty products:

Great advertising does not have to be flashy

A good ad does not need to feature flashy celebs or supermodels. However, it does need to portray your product and brand in a way that is clear and easy to digest. An example of this is adverts by Clinique – although not extravagant, the ads shows off the product and provides information on what the producy actually does.

A great advertisement knows itself

A great ad needs to convey what it is that the brand stands for – this helps consumers relate to the brand and build a connection. Make up product MAC is a good example of this because of their creative advertisements. Although it is not a mainstream product, it shows that the brand is hip, young and innovative.

A great advertisement is easy to understand

Women really want to understand an ad. They buy from brands they understand. No matter how great a product you may have, if your message is not communicated clearly, your customer will not understand nor relate to it. Although Neutrogena (below) was shown to be ‘easy to understand’ by a market study, in 2008, the brand did run into some trouble with the industry watchdog NAD (National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus) for making individual products look like they were the ‘#1 recommended product by dermatologists’, when really it was the brand as a whole.

A great advertisement connects to emotions

It’s a wide known fact (whether we like it or not) that women live in an emotional world and our decisions are primarily driven by what we feel. For a brand, establishing a connection on an emotional level is what can transcend it to becoming part of the consumer’s daily life.

One of my personal favourite brands for doing this is Dove with, first, their infamous Campaign for Real Beauty in 2004 and then their Pro Age Campaign in 2007 which got banned from TV in the US by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) for showing too much skin and implying nudity. Despite them being banned, Dove is still one of my top brands as all of their marketing really tries to connect with people. Now, they are even making short films to challenge what the norms really are of beauty – very interesting to watch.

Dove’s Campaign for Real Beauty (2004)

Dove Pro Age Campaign (2007) – banned in the USA for showing too much skin

Dove short film on what women’s first impressions are of other women (2009)

Although some would say otherwise, the beauty industry is great industry to be in – you get to make people feel good about themselves, more confident, more relaxed with their appearance and give them the ability to become who they want to be in the eyes of the world. We are very privileged as marketers to be able to connect on such a deep level with people, and it’s a role we should not take for granted or take the easy route out of. By understanding what it is your customer really wants, you can offer them something that is unique and valuable and gain a devoted customer for life.

If you want to know more about beauty marketing, here are some interesting reads:

Living Brands: Where the Future of Beauty Begins
By Raymond Nadeau for Professional Beauty (2008)

In Dove ads, normal is the new beautiful
By Jack Neff for Advertising Age (2004)

Savvy Beauty Marketers Can Thrive in Challenging Times
By Alisa Marie Beyer for Global Cosmetic Industry (2009)